What Is Cosmetic Formulation? How Beauty Products Are Developed

Cosmetic scientists blend science with creativity to develop, test, and manufacture the beauty and personal care products we rely on every day.

In a competitive global cosmetics industry estimated to reach over a trillion dollars by 2030, cosmetic scientists who excel in product development, prototype creation, testing, and manufacturing are needed now more than ever.

If you’re interested in a career that blends beauty and creativity with science, chemistry, and consumer science, read on to learn more about the science, ingredients, and development process behind cosmetic formulation. 

• Every cosmetic formula includes active and inactive ingredients. Active ingredients deliver a product’s benefits, while inactive ingredients impact a product’s look, texture, smell, and shelf life.
• The formulation process includes many steps, including research and concept development, ingredient selection, prototype development, extensive testing, packaging compatibility, and manufacturing scale-up.
• Along with a strong background in chemistry and biology, cosmetic scientists need experience in formula design, testing, compliance, and lab operations. Many companies hiring cosmetic scientists also require a master’s degree in cosmetic science.

Cosmetic formulation is the art and science of engineering beauty and personal care products that are effective, safe, appealing to customers, and commercially viable.

In this process, cosmetic formulators blend different proportions of active and inactive ingredients together to reach a desired product goal. The process also includes rigorous product research, careful ingredient selection, extensive testing, and scaling for manufacturing.

Every cosmetic formula is composed of a unique combination of ingredients, each serving a specific function and goal. These ingredients can be scientifically classified in many ways, but are generally grouped into two distinct categories:

• Active (or Functional) Ingredients
• Base and Supporting Ingredients

Active ingredients (often called functional ingredients or cosmeceuticals) are the biologically or chemically active compounds in a formulation that deliver a product’s benefits to a consumer. For instance, the active ingredient in sunscreen would be zinc oxide because it protects the skin from harmful UV rays. 

Common active ingredients found in cosmetics include:

• Retinol (Vitamin A)
• Hyaluronic Acid
• Peptides
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids
• Antioxidants
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
• Vitamin C

Cosmetic scientists select inactive ingredients (sometimes called excipients) for their ability to support and complement a formulation’s active ingredients. These supporting ingredients usually make up the largest portion of a formula and influence a product's look, texture, smell, and shelf life.

Excipient ingredients found in cosmetic products include:

• Emulsifiers 
• Thickeners 
• Preservatives 
• Emollients 
• Humectants
• Fragrance and colorants

Before a cosmetic is available for purchase, it has undergone months—and sometimes years—of extensive research, formulation, and testing. Steps in the cosmetic formulation process include:

1. Product concept and research
2. Ingredient selection
3. Prototype formulation
4. Testing and refinement
5. Packaging and compatibility
6. Scale-up and manufacturing

The first step in cosmetic formulation involves brainstorming new products and determining their intended purposes and goals. Research teams analyze consumer and market demand, competitor products, and scientific evidence to decide which products to develop. Teams also consider factors such as pricing, target audience, packaging, and product positioning before selecting ingredients. 

Once a product’s concept and positioning are determined, cosmetic scientists move forward to ingredient selection. In this complex process, scientists must consider a raw ingredient’s functionality, concentration, pH, quality, availability, and safety—both on its own and alongside other ingredients. 

In recent years, scientists have introduced Artificial Intelligence at this stage to predict formulation efficacy, ingredient compatibility, and other factors such as safety and allergy risks.

Once scientists select an initial formula, they work to create a physical product in a carefully controlled lab. Scientists mix ingredients in specific phases and assess factors like color, smell, texture, viscosity, and absorption. Most formulas go through dozens of iterations before a final formula is determined.

Next, the formula prototype must undergo a series of tests to meet quality standards, along with safety and regulatory checks guided by frameworks like the FD&C Act and the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA).

Common cosmetic formulation tests include:

• Stability testing
• Preservative efficacy testing
• Efficacy testing
• Toxicology and safety testing

If a prototype fails any tests, it must return to the R&D stage for troubleshooting and additional development.

Determining a formula’s cosmetic packaging is an important part of the formulation process. Packaging affects a formula’s image and marketing, but improper packaging can degrade ingredients or cause harmful interactions. Cosmetic packaging tests ensure that the formula is compatible with its packaging and remains stable and undamaged during transportation.

Finally, a formula is taken to a manufacturing facility. But before hundreds or thousands of products can be produced, cosmetic scientists must work with manufacturing professionals to scale out a small pilot batch to full-scale production. This involves selecting manufacturing-friendly ingredients, processes, and troubleshooting errors. 

Safety testing ensures that a product is safe for consumer use and will not cause health risks or skincare damage. This protects brands from lawsuits, FDA involvement, reputational damage, and product recalls.

Stability and quality testing also guarantee a product arrives in consumers’ hands as intended—without mold growth, ingredient separation, or changes in color, texture, and efficacy.

Finally, testing can also drive sales and growth for a company. Studies show that consumers are more likely to buy and pay more for clinically tested cosmetic products than untested ones.

To excel in cosmetic formulation, you need a range of skills that blend creativity with multiple scientific disciplines. The top skills cosmetic scientists need include:

• A strong foundation in chemistry, biology, and physiology
• Experience with product design and testing
• Background in lab equipment operations
• Knowledge of cosmetic software programs
• Regulatory and compliance knowledge

Led by renowned faculty within the James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy—one of the top 40 pharmacy colleges in the country—UC’s online Master of Science in Cosmetic Science prepares students with the skills and experience needed to advance in cosmetic science and formulation careers.

Globally recognized as one of the country’s oldest cosmetic science programs, our fully online coursework teaches students how to research and formulate new cosmetic products and assess them for safety and quality. Optional in-person one-week intensive labs in color cosmetics and fragrance science are also available to give students additional research, development, and formulation experience.

Students in our program gain an international network while completing their degree online with part-time flexibility. Students can also gain invaluable lab leadership and business skills by earning an online Pharmacy Leadership Graduate Certificate along with their degrees. 

Ready to begin your journey in cosmetic science? Start today by contacting an Enrollment Services Advisor to see how our program fits your career goals and schedule.